Cotton

Cotton is a short-staple cellulosic fibre, and almost everything that matters commercially is decided after the fibre stage: staple length, yarn count, weave and finish. A long-staple cotton spun into a fine two-fold yarn produces a smooth, lustrous poplin; the same fibre in a coarse single yarn woven as a drill produces workwear cloth. Asking for cotton tells a supplier almost nothing — asking for 120 GSM poplin in a 2/100s yarn tells them everything.

Construction is the practical language of cotton. Poplin is a tight plain weave with a fine crosswise rib, crisp and shirt-facing. Twill runs a diagonal line that softens drape and hides soil, which is why it dominates trousers and workwear. Canvas and drill are heavier and denser again. Voile is open and semi-sheer; satin floats warp over weft for surface lustre; jersey is knitted rather than woven and brings stretch and recovery.

Finish then sets the final character. Mercerising raises lustre and dye uptake, brushing lifts a soft nap for winter shirting, and peaching gives a suede-like surface. Elastane at two to three percent transforms fit for trousers and shirting but changes shrinkage and pressing behaviour, so it should be confirmed rather than assumed.